Saturday, August 06, 2016

Zulu Wars Saga game

                                                                 Zulu Wars

Scenario 1 Page 110 from the Crescent and Cross book. 10 point game 

Turn 1 Zulu: using the enveloping attack the Zulu forces moved forward as a group. Veterans on the right used another move to come to the banks of the river and takes one fatigue.


Turn 1 British: British forces use the range markers square on the battle board to fire at double the range without halving the fire dice. I use the Zulu Duck reaction to add one to the defence dice of two units (saving on 3s).


Turn 2 Zulu: pretty poor dice roll means that the Zulus only manage to reach the river and await the punishing rifle fire. 

Turn 2: British very much like the first turn but British fire is desultory and only takes out a couple of bases of levy troops.


Turn 3 Zulu: once again the Zulus roll poorly and only manage to get a few units across the small river.
Turn 3 British: volley fire order from the leader (L) devastates the units in the front line of the Zulu waves. A British unit attacks the unit of Zulus struggling across the small river but are repulsed in a bloody battle that results in the loss of one British base. The levy unit on the hill (left) fire and kill one base of Zulu veterans. 


Turn 4 Zulu: I finally roll and enveloping attack and manage to move my whole force forward and actually defeat a British unit in combat with a depleted Zulu warrior unit.


Turn 4 British: the British are a little worried with the amount of Zulus across the river and counter quickly and push the victorious unit back into the river. The British sailors concentrate their fire on the veterans and destroy 3 stands.


Turn 5 Zulus: slow advance with a charge by the veterans on the right which destroys 3 levy bases. Loses are mounting and the Zulus have yet to really reach the British lines. If they survive the firepower to come the Zulus might pull off a win.


Turn 5 British: Levies manage to kill 1 base of veterans with their limited firepower.


Turn 6 Zulus: failure to move the entire army ensures only a few units charge into contact and I lose 2 out 3 combats. The Zulus are in trouble and are under the guns of the enemy.

Turn 6 British: British battle board is concentrated upon firing and the Zulus units wilt under the firepower. The British veterans charge into the Zulu veterans but are repulsed with a base lost on each side.


End result was a massive victory to the Bristish forces. Poor rolling meant that the Zulus just didn't close with the British quickly enough and the firepower whittled them down from long range. Mark made much better use of his Saga board and concentrated on using those parts that helped up his firepower dice. I needed another turn to do what Zulus do best and that is to fight in close combat. 

Great game and Mark's simple changes to the rules from the WSS magazine worked very well. Must paint those Mahdi up ASAP and get them on the table against my Warlord Games British.

Thursday, July 07, 2016

Saga and the Zulu Wars

Played the fantastic Colonial Wars variant last weekend which was published in the Wargames Soldiers and Strategy magazine a few years ago. Figures are replaced by bases of 2-3 infantry and games can be up to 10 points. Mark Piper and I played a 8 point Zulu Wars game using scenario IV (pg. 113) from 'The Crescent and Ceoss' book. Zulus swarmed down from the hills and massacred the British force, fantastic variant which I heartily recommend for a different feel. Figures and terrain are from Mark Piper's excellent collection.
                                            British have walked into a trap
                                        Each base of 2-3 figures replaces the single figures of normal Saga
                                   British forces heading towards a quite Zulu village




Friday, June 10, 2016

Making a Zone Mortalis board cheaply

Tim from the Eye of Horus podcast threw out a challenge a few months ago about creating a Zone Mortalis table cheaply. Ok challenge was quickly accepted and I went about planning how to create a workable table and how much I wanted to spend. Budget I decided would be $200 which included materials, paint and a 6x4 Ship Interior FatMat from Frontline Gaming. I picked up my FatMat from Issac Baxter from the Warrior Lodge gaming group in North Brisbane for $100. 


I discussed my philosophy about designing a table on episode 62 of the EOH podcast especially emphasising how you will design your terrain to fit the look and outline of your Gaming mat. The FatMat has a large number of clearly defined rooms, corridors and a large open area that could be a landing bay or ship bridge. Now onto the materials used to create the walls and the doors.

Materials (essential)
2 x A1 sheets of 10mm thick foamcard (800mm x 600mm) $10-$15 a sheet
1 x A1 sheet of 5mm thick foamcard (800mm x 600mm) $8-12 a sheet
1 x sheet of 3mm MDF (600mm x 600mm) $8-$10 a sheet
1 x sheet of mounting board (thin cardboard for edges and detailing) $4-$6 a sheet
White glue used for woodworking $8-$10 a large bottle 
Tamiya Modelling tape (used to keep pieces in place whilst the glue sets) $8 a roll
Cheap Spray paint to basecoat walls (I use cans from Supa Cheap Auto) $3 

Materials (optional)
Airbrush to paint walls and add markings
CNC widgets to add details to walls and doors (pictured below) $16 for 39 pieces

Starting your build:

1. Decide how high you want your walls to be. I went with 8cm to match some MDF walls that I had bought from Battlefield Accessories.
2. Plan your room sizes using the Mat to guide you but ensure you identify where your doors will go. 
3. Remember when planning your rooms that you need to store and move these sections (I use under the bed plastic boxes). The larger rooms are made in several sections that use MDF pieces to connect the walls.

Test room build: 

Below you can see a small room section of our FatMat measured and cut from Foamcard. The MDF sections are doors which will be discussed later on.


Larger room marked out, cut and placed out ready for construction. Notice that the door frame is two pieces of MDF which has yet to be cut to allow the insertion of the door (thinner foamcard or MDF).

Larger room below which will be made in two pieces to allow storage. The MDF door frames will allow the walls to join together.

Board under construction and nearly there.

Another board in progress shot

Notice how all the walls and doors mirror the design of the Mat. Removable walls in the larger room breaks up the open areas and provides lots of cover.

Notice the door frames have been cut and await doors which are simply slotted in when gaming.

Planning out how to break up the open areas in some of the rooms.

MDF pieces (30mm wide) are added to provide strength, weight, shape and walls joints are added to the Foamcard walls.

Foamcard walls nearly done however these still lack the very important thin cardboard strips along the exposed foam edges. The foamcard needs to be covered otherwise the spray paint will melt it and plus it looks much better. 

One of the many separate door frames to slow down and provide cover for our combatants.

First outing of the basic table after adding some yellow markings to the walls. More work on weathering and the adding of MDF CNC widgets needs to be done however.


Tuesday, January 26, 2016

Team Yankee 20mm

Had a great game of Team Yankee at the club last weekend. We played the last scenario from the rulebook where a Soviet tank battalion is trying to deploy from a small forest trail and suprise the American forces. The scenario was played twice with a win either way however in the first game I got hammered by the Yanks and left my tanks burning everywhere.

          First tanks deploying from the trail are quickly knocked out.

         Flanking force of 5 T72s actually last longer than I thought and take out a couple of Abrams.

Soviet tanks try to get through the woods into open country.


Soviet tanks finally break into open ground but their numbers are too few.

Lots of burning Soviet tanks.